Athearn Genesis' HO Scale GP15 Review

The EMD GP15 has been recreated in many scales, including HO, before. Athearn's long-awaited release of a new model of this prototype in its Genesis line delivers on all of the hype. This small and versatile locomotive will be as usefull on many model railroads as it is in real life.
Three numbers are available per road in DC or DCC / sound versions.
Roadnames (first run): Conrail, Chicago Northwestern, Norfolk Southern (former CR), Missouri Pacific, Undecorated (multiple versions)
MSRP: $269.98 (DCC / sound) / $169.98 (DC)
A second run with new roadnames and detail variations has already been anounced.

Prototype History

In the 1970s, the Electro Motive Division of General Motors (EMD) designed a new locomotive program to compete with growing locomotive rebuilding programs. Railroads across the country were having older locomotives rebuilt to save on the costs of a new locomotive. Many of the rebuilt engines were older EMD models.

EMD designed the GP15 to handle many of the same roles performed by the locomotives it would replace, from yard and switching to mainline duty. Railroads purchasing GP15's supplied an equal number of trade-in locomotives which would supply traction motors, generators and other components that could be rebuilt and included in the otherwise new locomotive. The GP15 featured 1,500 horsepower and had numerous options including dynamic brakes and different air filtration systems. Later variations included a turbocharged 8-cylender version of the 645 diesel engine. EMD built 368 GP15s in a variety of arrangements between 1974 and 1982 for six railroads.
Historical Background from: Athearn Trains GP15 Instruction Sheet

Performance

The Athearn Genesis GP15 sounds as good as it looks.

®2010 Ryan C Kunkle, licensed to About.com, Inc.

Athearn has a long tradition of building reliable models. The GP15 is no exception. The model is offered in both standard DC and DCC equipped versions which include a Soundtraxx Tsunami sound decoder. The DCC version was tested for this review.
Although they could and did stretch their legs in road service, GP15's are normally assigned to yards and local freights which feature a lot of low-speed running. I put mine to the test working a small yard and some local freights for an evening.

The GP15 started up to 20 cars at a smooth and realistic slow speed without stalling on my yard ladder which includes a very slight uphill grade. Above 20 cars, the locomotive would stall frequently, including efforts to take slack in the couplers. Many prototypes operated the GP15's in pairs, so a second unit would not look out of place if your yard crew regularly handles larger cuts of cars.
While the locomotive will zip along at a top speed that is probably somewhat greater than the prototype's, it's slow speed performance is outstanding. Acceleration is smooth and sustained low-speed performance is phenomenal. I had some problems early on with stalling on tracks that hadn't been used in a while. A little overdue track cleaning elimiated this problem. This may be the quietest locomotive I have ever tested (not including the sound of course). Even at top speed, there is no motor or gearbox noise. This allows the Tsunami decoder to shine.
I coupled the locomotive onto several different cars with various knuckle couplers. Some couplers with longer trip pins did interfere with the plows.

Sound

The Soundtraxx Tsunami decoder has already received positive reviews in other locomotives and is becoming the new standard for DCC sound. One of the features that set these decoders apart is the ability to customize virtually every feature. I left my locomotive on its factory equipped settings for this test.
One of the first things to jump out about the factory settings on this sound decoder is the low overall volume. Compared to other locomotives out-of-the-box, this locomotive is very quiet. While sound is a matter of personal taste, I have to say that I like the settings. On larger model railroads, a room full of engines cranking away at full volume can be very distracting. The locomotive can be heard from a comfortable distance, but not from anywhere in the house. One nice feature is that all of the sounds are nicely balanced; no overpowering bells or whistles. I'll probably leave most of the factory settings as-is, but the volume settings can be adjusted for each sound if so desired.

Details

The GP15 features numerous railroad-specific details.

®2010 Ryan C Kunkle, licensed to About.com, Inc.

Athearn proclaimed that this would be the most detailed model of this locomotive ever produced in HO scale, and they delivered. With all of its options and production changes, the GP15 is a challenge for model makers. No two railroads' locomotives look the same. One look at the parts diagram on Athearn's instruction sheet tells the story. From the air intakes down to the coupler cut levers, Athearn has reproduced just about every variation in production big or small. Locomotive details often change over time, so for those who strive to model a very specific prototype or time period, there will still be room for some tweeking. For most, a good weathering job is all that will be needed to put this locomotive right into service.

I tested the Conrail version. For more on the Conrail-specific details, see page two of this review.
Overall, this locomotive is very high on detail. The see-through screens on the radiator, sand and air lines on the trucks, cab interior and pilot details stand out among the rest. An all-weather window and sunshades are included as add-on details for the consumer.
Paint is evenly applied and all of the lettering, including the tiny safety decals, is clear and crisp. Most of these locomotives toiled in yards and received a good coating of exhaust and grime. A good weathering job will really make the small details pop.

Click below for my favourite resource :

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Thanks From,

Donald Foster.

Model Train Track Curves and Minimum Curve Issues

Image via WikipediaModel Railroad track curves may seem like a simple issue, but there can be much more to them than meets the eye. Track curves on model railroad layouts require some planning and knowledge of a few relevant issues. People new to model railroading are sometimes unaware that model train track curves are sold in various radii. Modelers frequently like to run tracks parallel to each other, and this requires curves of different radii. So what's all this about radii? Track Curves Radius and Arc ""Author's photo (Click to enlarge). A radius in geometry is the distance from the center of a circle to any point on the circle. Smaller circles have shorter radii (the plural of radius is radii).

The image at the left shows curved sections of Kato Unitrack in four different radii. Kato actually offers curved sections in seven radii, one smaller and two larger than those shown. The term arc refers to the segment of a circle, and is expressed in degrees. An entire circle has an arc of 360 degrees. So half a circle is a 180 degree turn. This is the arc necessary to turn a train around. The curved pieces in the photo each have an arc of 45 degrees. Depending on scale and manufacturer, track pieces may be found in 15, 22.5, 30, and 45 degree arcs. Ads AusRAIL 2011 ExhibitionFree exhibition entry. 15000sqm. 300 exhibitors.

3000 attendees.Ausrail.com Melbourne Toys DealUp to 90% off on Toys See Today's Offer in Melbourne !www.ouffer.com/Toys-Melbourne Railroad track layoutsFree scenery tips and collection of track plans for your railroadmodelrailroadlayoutsandscenery.com/ Track Curves Are All About Space ""Layout diagram by author (Click to enlarge). Track curves can be used to break up the monotony of long straight sections of track. But their real utility is realized in turning your trains around. The rule of thumb in model railroad layout construction has always been to use the largest radius curve that you can. One of the signs of model railroad addiction is "You look at a table or other flat surface... and start estimating the largest radius curve you can put on it." I agree that you should use curves with a radius of 18 inches or larger in HO and 11 inches or larger in N scale... if you have the space. The Problem With Narrow Spaces So what if your available space is 2 x 5 feet? Many experienced modelers would tell you that you can only build a switching layout, a layout with no 180 degree turns, in such a space.

On switching layouts your trains can only run back and forth, and modelers simulate setting out and picking up cars from industries and connecting up cars to make a train on them. Some people really enjoy doing this. But if you really want a continuous loop layout in your small space, despite the fact that it may not look prototypical, then minimum radius becomes very important to you. Don't let someone else's rule of thumb ruin spoil your fun. I've said a lot more about space in my article on train tables and boards for children. Minimum Radius and Diameter ""Table by author (Click to enlarge). The smallest space a train can turn in is its minimum radius. When choosing a scale in model railroading it is important to remember that the larger the scale, the larger the minimum radius for your curves will be. The chart at the left shows the minimum curve available in various scales from different model railroad track manufacturers. Click the link to read it. In geometry, the diameter is twice the radius. But when planning space to turn your trains around, you need to remember that the radius given by the manufacturers is measured from the center of the track, not the outside edge. So you need to add the overall width of a track piece to the diameter in order to properly calculate the space needed to turn a train around. N Scale Note ""Image courtesy Plaza Japan (Click to enlarge). After writing this article I learned that the Japanese manufacturer Tomix offers N scale minimum curves of 103mm radius, or 4 inches. Serious prototypical model railroaders regard Kato's 8.5 inch radius track, as much too small for their layouts, so they certainly won't take Tomix' 4 inch curves seriously.

I think that for children, if you ensure that their trains can handle these tight turns, these Tomix curves will allow them to be much more creative in laying out track on an under-the-bed board. However, Tomix track isn't readily available in the US, as Kato track is. It can be purchased online from Plaza Japan. If you know of other sources for Tomix track in the US, please notify the guide so that they can be listed here. Locomotive Size Is An Issue For navigating tight turns your primary issue is the wheelbase of your locomotives and rolling stock. The tightest curve Kato manufactures for their N scale Unitrack has an 8.5 inch radius. This means you can fit an oval of Unitrack in a space as tight as 18 inches, or a double track in an area with a width of about 22 inches. However, Kato warns you that six axle locomotives won't be able to navigate the 8.5 curves. As long as you're aware of this fact, you won't waste your money buying big modern diesels or long articulated steam locomotives and face the disappointment of them derailing on your curves. Short trains pulled by smaller steam locomotives, or short cuts of modern cars pulled by a switcher look fine on these curves.

Don't Be In a Hurry to Glue Down Track If you're new to model railroading, don't be in a hurry to glue down your track and start landscaping. Throw out the buzzwords "prototypical scale model" and remember that these are toy trains. So play with them. Change your track around and experiment. Discover what works and what doesn't... and what you like and don't like. Use a segmented track for this... preferably one with an integrated roadbed. If and when you go to build a permanent layout you'll likely want to change from segmented track to flex track, but everything you learn from segmented track about curve radius and arc will still apply. I don't think you'll be unhappy with your investment in the integrated roadbed track... unless you bought a number of expensive turnouts. Camouflage If Un-Prototypical Bothers You If the look of tight turns is going to bother you, and you don't have space to widen them, you can camouflage your curves with tunnels and narrow canyons.

For a great example of this take a look at the PRR layout by Dave Vollmer. Dave built this layout on a 36 x 80 inch door. I'm not saying Dave's curves are too tight, I'm saying that even if by some people's standards they happen to be, I can't see it. In any case, this layout doesn't look like a double track oval. If you hide tight curves, don't forget the limitations imposed by them. Camouflaging doesn't let you run six axle locos, it just makes the trains that you can run look more realistic. In any case remember, never let other people's opinions spoil your fun.
 Of course My Favourite Resource can be found at the Link below :

http://www.model-train-help.com/?hop=fossie09

Many Thanks Again,
Donald Foster

Designing and Constructing Custom Trackwork

My modeling interest is in the world of HO trolleys. Unfortunately modeling HO traction means I have to build most of my trackwork from scratch. As a result I have developed a set of techniques that work for me and may be of interest to other modelers including those interested in building custom trackwork for traditional railroads.

1. I have found that using an image scanner and a graphics-drawing program on my PC gives me a great set of tools to develop plans and templates for my custom trackwork. I use one of the earlier versions of Jasc’s PaintShop Pro©. The key to developing a plan which can be used later as a construction template, is to figure out the appropriate match between the drawing scale and the printed paper template.

Scanning a piece of model track can make a good start at this match. For example put a piece of flex track, or even a whole turnout, in a scanner and copy it into your drawing program. Draw some lines into this scanned image to represent rails and do some trial printouts, varying the print scale. Keep track of each test print until you find the scale that produces a printout that matches the actual flex track and then mark that scale in your drawing. You should save this drawing to use in future projects so you do not have to repeat this “scaling” step.

2. Now using the drawn track lines, create your custom track design. You can use the drawing program’s tools to rotate and cut/copy/paste to build up the design starting just from those original drawn track lines. One of my custom track work designs is shown in one of the illustrations.
3. I use a printed copy of the design as a template for construction. I tape down the printed page to some Homosote and then start cutting and filing rail to size and shape. I spike the rail into position right over the printed template, soldering when appropriate. Use of a track gauge would be a good check on positioning. I use temporary soldered brass strips to hold the custom trackwork rails in position when moving the assembly to the layout. This discussion did not go into the shaping of custom rail work such as points and frogs which has been covered in the modeling press. But it has instead focused on a way of developing the custom trackwork plan and a working template.

Thanks Again, Donald Foster.
http://www.model-train-help.com/?hop=fossie09

What Is Scratchbuilding?

Scratchbuilding is exactly what it says on the tin; building from scratch. True scratchbuilding is done completely using raw materials, from the foundations of your model train layout, to the buildings and detailing you use to decorate your model railway. Rather than using a shop-bought kit, which simply needs assembling, scratchbuilding is the creation of a scale model by hand from raw materials. Plywood, clay, plaster, metal and plastic are all materials that can be used to create your model railway if you choose to scratch build it. Whether you choose to buy some of the extra layout detail, such as buildings, signs etc. is down to personal preference.

There are definite advantages to scratchbuilding. Your layout becomes completely unique, with the exact measurements and specifications you desire. It is very satisfying to stand back and admire your hard work once completed. The raw materials required to scratchbuild are cheaper than a commercial kit, which is an attraction to those with the practical skills to make a successful scale model by hand. Planning is an essential part of scratchbuilding. The concept of your railway layout can be based on commercial designs. Many scratchbuilders gain their experience from assembling kits first. To begin with, you may wish to kitbash to help you get started. With a big project, merging pre-made kits to create a new design, without having to think one up yourself, can be a good way to start. Always plan your layout carefully. You can include as much detail as you like. Specialized software is available to plan your model railway on a computer.

Simulations of the track and trains are very useful if you struggle to visualize a 2D design in 3D. Making the transformation from paper to model isn’t easy, however scratch building allows ultimate flexibility as well as the ability to recreate a totally original model train layout. Although scratch building uses raw materials, this doesn’t mean you can’t use things like plastic. It simply means that instead of buying landscape detail, you build everything to start from scratch. For example, instead of buying trees or buildings, you will scratch build them yourself. Using wood, cardboard, or even paper, every last piece of your model train layout can be hand made from raw materials. Very satisfying! Scratchbuilding is not for the faint-hearted but is incredibly satisfying. It takes time and requires motivation, precision and patience. Almost everything can be scratchbuilt, from the buildings to the sheep grazing on your mountains. I recommend to start by learning the basics through kit building. This will give you an idea of how commercial, pre-made items are finished and then you can try to replicate them. Scratchbuilding is a satisfying way to create your own unique model train layout. When every last detail is perfect, sit back and enjoy your hard work. You deserve it! Enjoy Your Scratchbuilding,

Donald Foster,

http://www.model-train-help.com/?hop=fossie09

Scenery and Structure Basics For Model Trains

When you are getting started with model trains, it is easy to get carried away with the trains and the tracks themselves. However, part of what makes model trains such a great hobby is the scenery. The scenery that your model train will run through and over makes the whole layout interesting and it is fun to create. You should take a moment and learn more about how to create great realistic looking scenery.

Model trains are a hobby that can grow over time, and the more time that you spend working on it, the better your layout will look. If you are a model train beginner or not, you will find that kits are going to be the best place to initially get the results that you are after. Model train kits give you everything that you need to create a realistic model train world. With just a little bit of work, you are going to be able to get some impressively detailed scenes. You can get scenery that will take you through many different types of landscape and through many different time periods, and you will discover that there are plenty of great options open to you. Just remember that you should choose ones that will match each other. You should have a unified look and you should take a moment to work on how you are going to tie the whole look together.

Many novice model train builders end up with results that they do not like because they expanded their model train set without thinking about what they really want. You should consider the scale that you want to build on, and how you are going to be able to get the full effect that you are going for. Consider what kind of models you want to use and what you want them to be made out of. Plastic is the most common material used, and many great sets are made completely from plastic. Some people disapprove of plastic because of the way that one model can look identical to another, but this is easy to fix with just a dab of paint or some other details.

Think about how your layout is put together and how you can create a unique look, no matter what materials are used. Wood is another material that is used, as is a mix of hard plaster, resin and cardstock. You might find kits that have metal bits that need to be snapped or soldered in, and this can be a great opportunity to learn new skills as well. Take a moment to learn more about model trains and the scenery that makes them so special. This is something that can make a huge difference to your model train layout at the end of the day! Thanks And Take Care Railway Modelling, Donald Foster,


http://www.model-train-help.com/?hop=fossie09

Donald Foster

So How Does Someone Considering Model Trains Decide Which Scale To Start With?

This comes down to 3 deciding factors –

1. How much space you have available for your model train layout,.

2. The physical size of model train equipment you prefer working with, and. 3. The accessories available for that model train scale..

Let me explain these 3 points in detail… .

1. How Much Space Do You Have Available? Building a model railroad layout in HO scale will be about 1/2 the size of a similar model train layout in O scale. The turning radius’ in HO scale will be tighter, the structures will be smaller, the detail will be less important and it is easier to hide mistakes in a smaller scale like HO scale. It can be very hard to create a realistic looking layout in a large scale. HO scale has become very popular because it is a “middle-of-the-road” scale and easier to make look realistic. A HO scale continuous loop model railroad will need a 3 feet 6 inch x 4 foot table, while a HO scale switching model railroad can be created on a 4 x 1 foot table. A model train layout space of 6 feet x 4 feet would be enough to have an interesting HO scale layout with a continuous loop. If you don’t have that much room available, then you should consider a N scale layout which can be built in less than 1/3 of the area required by a similar HO scale model train layout. .

2. Which Scale Do You Prefer Working With? It can get very frustrating trying to work with a locomotive or car that you struggle to hold, or struggle to see the small fiddly pieces. A big magnifying glass, bright lighting and tools to work with your trains can solve many of these problems, but often it’s easier to just model a bigger scale. This hobby should be fun, so there is no need for frustration searching for the lost magnifier or your glasses… Children will also find it easier operating and manipulating the bigger scales, from HO scale upwards. Bigger scale rolling stock tends to be heavier and less likely to derail. .

3. What Accessories Are Available For The Scale You Are Considering? At this stage HO scale is the most popular model railroad scale. Because of this the manufacturers have responded and are constantly creating a huge amount of accessories and rolling stock for HO scale. The popularity has come from HO scale being just the right size for most people to appreciate the detail, the amazingly good running performance and the price. Check with your local hobby shop to see which scale they have the most accessories for. It is often easier to buy from your local hobby shop initially… or at least until you know exactly what you want. Then have a look at eBay. .
Thanks Again, Donald Foster,

http://www.model-train-help.com/?hop=fossie09

A Good Quality Locomotive Is Essential

A Good Quality Steam Locomotive on a Model Train outlet.  A good quality Locomotive will make all the difference… It can be very frustrating having a locomotive that you need to push to get going, or it suddenly speeds up and falls off the tracks.
A locomotive runs by picking up the electricity from the track through its wheels. The wheels transfer the electricity to the motor, which then turns the gears to drive the locomotive. A locomotive with poor pickup on the wheels or a poor gear set up will give you lots of problems. As with most things, you get what you pay for… but this is one area you do not want to skimp on. A great operating locomotive is 90% of the way to having a fantastic model train layout.
When buying a locomotive these points are critical:
1) The amount of metal wheels that pick up the electricity – the more the better, but definitely more than 1 set.

2) A good gearing ratio and motor which requires the least amount of electricity to move the locomotive, with a slow but smooth start.

3) Flywheels at one or both ends of the motor to ensure a smooth take off and smooth stop.
4) The weight of the locomotive should be just right to maintain a good connection to the track at all times but not too heavy to make the locomotive sluggish.

5) The length of the locomotive – shorter diesel locomotives are less likely to derail on the curves than longer steam locomotives.
Most hobby shops will let you test the locomotive on their in-house test tracks before you buy. Test the locomotive forwards and backwards… Check for a nice smooth take off and a nice smooth stop when the power is ramped up or down. I usually go into my local hobby shop after doing my research online, test the locomotive, and then I know what price to negotiate around… That tip has saved me nearly 30% of the retail price in some cases…
Buy quality when you buy your locomotives… I guarantee the investment will be well worth it.

To Your Success In Your Model Train Projects,
Donald Foster,

http://www.model-train-help.com/?hop=fossie09

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